Chinchilla Care Guide

Chinchillas are wonderful, unique companions that can live 15-20 years with proper care. They're playful, curious, and form strong bonds with their owners. But they also have very specific needs that differ significantly from other small pets.

This guide covers everything you need to know to give your chinchilla a happy, healthy life. Whether you're considering adoption or already have a chinchilla at home, understanding their needs is the foundation of good care.

Quick Reference

Lifespan: 15-20 years

Temperature: 60-70°F (never above 75°F)

Humidity: Below 50%

Diet: Unlimited hay + 1-2 tbsp pellets daily

Dust baths: 2-3 times per week

Exercise: 1-2 hours supervised playtime daily

Cage minimum: 30" x 18" x 30" (bigger is better)

Social needs: Thrive with companionship

Understanding Chinchillas

Chinchillas are crepuscular rodents native to the Andes Mountains of South America, where they live at elevations of 10,000-16,000 feet. This high-altitude origin shapes nearly every aspect of their care requirements. The cool, dry mountain air they evolved in means they cannot tolerate heat or humidity—conditions that would never occur in their natural habitat.

Perhaps their most remarkable feature is their fur. Chinchillas have the densest fur of any land mammal, with up to 80 hairs growing from a single follicle (humans have just one). This incredible coat kept them warm in the frigid Andes nights, but it also means they overheat easily and cannot get wet—their fur is simply too dense to dry properly.

In the wild, chinchillas are social animals living in herds called "colonies." They're prey animals, which influences their behavior: they're naturally cautious, startle easily, and prefer to have hiding spots available. They're also most active at dawn and dusk, so don't be surprised if your chinchilla seems sleepy during the day and full of energy in the evening.

Chinchillas are intelligent and can learn their names, come when called, and even learn simple tricks. They communicate through a variety of sounds—from soft chirps when content to loud barks when alarmed. Each chinchilla has a distinct personality; some are bold and adventurous, others more reserved and cautious.

Temperature: The Most Critical Factor

Temperature control is the single most important aspect of chinchilla care, and it's non-negotiable. The ideal temperature range is 60-70°F (15-21°C). Temperatures above 75°F (24°C) can cause heat stroke, which can be fatal within hours.

Because of their incredibly dense fur, chinchillas cannot cool themselves effectively. They don't sweat, and panting isn't an efficient cooling mechanism for them. Their large ears help dissipate some heat, but it's not nearly enough in warm conditions.

The Temperature + Humidity Rule

Here's a critical formula to remember: the temperature in Fahrenheit plus the humidity percentage should never exceed 150. For example, if it's 70°F, humidity should stay below 80%. If it's 75°F, humidity needs to be below 75%. High humidity makes it even harder for chinchillas to regulate their body temperature.

Air Conditioning is Mandatory

If you live anywhere that experiences warm summers, air conditioning isn't optional—it's required. Even in cooler climates, you need a backup plan for power outages or AC failures. Some owners keep granite or marble tiles in the freezer that chinchillas can lie on in emergencies, but these are temporary measures only.

Placement Matters

Keep your chinchilla's cage:

  • Away from windows and direct sunlight
  • Away from heating vents and radiators
  • In an interior room if possible (more stable temperature)
  • Away from kitchens and other heat-generating areas

Signs of Overheating

Learn to recognize heat stress immediately. Signs include: red ears, drooling, lethargy, lying flat and stretched out, rapid breathing, and in severe cases, unconsciousness. If you see these signs, move your chinchilla to the coolest area possible and contact an emergency vet immediately. You can place them on a cool (not cold) tile, but never submerge them in water.

Housing Your Chinchilla

Chinchillas need space to jump, climb, and explore. In the wild, they traverse rocky terrain and can jump up to 6 feet. Your cage should accommodate this natural athleticism.

Cage Size

The absolute minimum cage size for a single chinchilla is 30" wide x 18" deep x 30" tall, but we strongly recommend going larger. Height is particularly important since chinchillas love to climb and jump. A cage that's 4-5 feet tall with multiple levels is ideal.

For two chinchillas, increase the minimum to at least 36" x 24" x 36". Remember: bigger is always better when it comes to cages.

Cage Features

Bar spacing should be no more than 1 inch, and ideally ½ inch, especially for younger chinchillas who can squeeze through surprisingly small gaps.

Solid surfaces are essential. Wire floors and shelves can cause bumblefoot (a painful foot condition) and can catch toes and legs. Use wooden shelves, fleece-covered platforms, or solid metal pans.

Multi-level design with platforms at varying heights lets chinchillas exercise their jumping instincts. Space ledges so jumps are no more than 12-18 inches to prevent injuries.

Recommended Cages

The Critter Nation and Ferret Nation cages by Midwest Homes for Pets are the gold standard for chinchilla housing. They offer excellent bar spacing, full-width double doors for easy cleaning, and can be stacked for more vertical space. They're readily available from major retailers like Amazon and Chewy, with replacement parts easily sourced.

Note: We previously recommended Quality Cage Crafters, but as of 2024 they appear to have stopped fulfilling orders while continuing to accept payments. Read our full report on Quality Cage Crafters before considering any purchase from them.

Avoid aquariums (poor ventilation) and small "starter" cages marketed for chinchillas—they're almost always too small.

Inside the Cage

Every chinchilla cage needs:

  • Hiding house - A wooden house or hidey-hole where they can retreat and feel safe
  • Exercise wheel - Minimum 15" diameter with a solid running surface (no rungs or mesh)
  • Water bottle - Glass bottles are preferred as chinchillas will chew through plastic
  • Hay rack or feeder - To keep hay clean and accessible
  • Food dish - Heavy ceramic or one that attaches to the cage to prevent tipping
  • Ledges and platforms - For climbing and jumping. Kiln-dried pine or poplar wood is safe
  • Chew toys - Essential for dental health

Bedding

For the cage floor, kiln-dried pine shavings or aspen shavings work well. Avoid cedar (toxic) and any scented beddings. Many owners use fleece liners, which are washable and economical long-term, but they require frequent changing to stay clean and dry.

Cage Placement

Beyond temperature considerations, place the cage in a relatively quiet area away from TVs, stereos, and high-traffic zones. Chinchillas have sensitive hearing. However, they do enjoy being part of family life—a quiet corner of a living room often works well once they're adjusted.

Diet & Nutrition

Chinchillas have a sensitive digestive system that's adapted to a high-fiber, low-fat, low-sugar diet. In the wild, they eat grasses, bark, and other tough plant materials. Domestic chinchillas thrive on a simple diet that mimics this—but simplicity here is a feature, not a limitation.

The Foundation: Hay

Unlimited timothy hay should make up the bulk of your chinchilla's diet—roughly 80%. Hay provides essential fiber for digestive health and keeps their continuously-growing teeth worn down. Your chinchilla should always have fresh hay available.

Timothy hay is the gold standard. You can also offer orchard grass, botanical hay, or oat hay for variety. Avoid alfalfa hay for adult chinchillas—it's too high in calcium and protein. Alfalfa is only appropriate for pregnant females, nursing mothers, or chinchillas under 6 months old.

Pellets

Feed 1-2 tablespoons of high-quality chinchilla pellets daily. Look for pellets that are:

  • 16-20% protein
  • 2-4% fat (no more than 3.5% ideally)
  • 18-20%+ fiber
  • Plain pellets only—no mixes with seeds, dried fruit, or treats

Recommended brands include Oxbow Essentials Chinchilla Food, Mazuri Chinchilla Diet, and Tradition Chinchilla Food. Stick with one brand rather than switching frequently, as sudden diet changes can cause digestive upset.

Water

Fresh, clean water should always be available. Use a glass water bottle (chinchillas chew plastic) and check daily that it's functioning properly. Change the water every day or two, even if it doesn't look empty.

Treats

Treats should be given sparingly—no more than a teaspoon total per day, and not every day. Safe treats include:

  • Plain shredded wheat (1 piece)
  • Plain cheerios (2-3 pieces)
  • Rosehips (1-2)
  • Dried hibiscus flowers
  • Old-fashioned rolled oats (a pinch)
  • Goji berries (1, occasionally)

Foods to Absolutely Avoid

  • Fresh fruits and vegetables - Too much water and sugar; can cause bloat and diarrhea
  • Nuts and seeds - Too high in fat
  • Dried fruits - Far too much sugar
  • Corn - Cannot be digested properly
  • Dairy products - Chinchillas are lactose intolerant
  • Bread, crackers, human snacks - Wrong nutrition profile
  • Chocolate, caffeine - Toxic
  • "Yogurt drops" and commercial treats - Despite being sold for chinchillas, most are full of sugar

The biggest mistake new owners make is wanting to "treat" their chinchilla with variety. Chinchillas genuinely thrive on a simple, consistent diet. The hay and pellets they eat every day are not boring to them—they're exactly what their bodies need.

Dust Baths

One of the most delightful aspects of chinchilla ownership is watching them take dust baths. They roll, flip, and shimmy with obvious joy—and it's not just adorable, it's essential for their health.

Why Dust, Not Water?

Remember that incredibly dense fur? It's so thick that if it gets wet, it won't dry properly. Moisture trapped against the skin can cause fungal infections, fur rot, and serious health problems. Never bathe a chinchilla in water.

Dust baths work differently. The fine volcanic dust absorbs oils and moisture from the fur, keeping it clean, fluffy, and healthy. In the wild, chinchillas roll in volcanic ash; domestic chinchilla dust replicates this.

Dust Bath Routine

Offer dust baths 2-3 times per week for about 10-15 minutes each session. In humid climates, you may need to offer baths more frequently; in very dry climates, less often. Over-bathing can dry out their skin.

Use a container large enough for your chinchilla to roll around in freely. Many owners use a "bathhouse" (an enclosed container with an entrance), which helps contain the dust. Fish bowls, large jars turned on their sides, or commercial chinchilla bath houses all work well.

Fill the container with about 1-2 inches of dust. You can reuse dust for several baths—sift out any droppings and add fresh dust as needed. Replace the dust entirely every few weeks or if it starts to look clumpy or dirty.

Choosing Dust

Use only dust specifically made for chinchillas. The best options are Blue Cloud or Blue Sparkle chinchilla dust. Avoid "sand" or products meant for other animals—the particle size matters for effectiveness and respiratory health.

Remove the bath after the session is over. Leaving it in the cage leads to overuse (they'll keep bathing), potential bathroom use, and unnecessary dust in the air.

Exercise & Enrichment

Chinchillas are active, athletic animals. In the wild, they cover significant terrain, jumping between rocks and running from predators. A cage, no matter how large, can't fully replicate this. Regular exercise and enrichment are essential for their physical and mental health.

Playtime Outside the Cage

Aim for 1-2 hours of supervised playtime outside the cage daily, ideally in the evening when they're most active. This is when you'll really see your chinchilla's personality shine as they explore, jump, and play.

The key word here is "supervised." Chinchillas are escape artists and chewers. They will find and chew electrical cords, squeeze into impossibly small spaces, nibble on furniture, and generally cause chaos if left unsupervised.

Chinchilla-Proofing a Room

Before playtime, make sure the room is safe:

  • Cover or remove all cords - Electrical cords are extremely dangerous
  • Block access behind furniture - They will get back there and you will not get them out easily
  • Remove houseplants - Many are toxic
  • Close windows and doors - Including closet doors
  • Check for small spaces - Under doors, behind appliances, etc.
  • Remove or protect anything valuable - They will chew it
  • Keep other pets out - Even "friendly" cats and dogs

Many owners create a dedicated "chinchilla-proof" room or use a large playpen area. A bathroom can work well (toilet lid down, chemicals removed) as it's easy to clean and has fewer hiding spots.

Exercise Wheel

A proper exercise wheel is essential cage furniture. The wheel must be at least 15 inches in diameter—anything smaller forces their spine to curve unnaturally. The running surface should be solid (no rungs or mesh that can trap feet).

Popular options include the Chin Spin, Silver Surfer, and similar solid-surface, large-diameter wheels. Many chinchillas will run for hours, especially at night.

Mental Enrichment

Chinchillas are intelligent and need mental stimulation. Provide:

  • Chew toys - A necessity for dental health and entertainment
  • Tunnels and tubes - Cardboard tubes (untreated), PVC pipes, wooden tunnels
  • Rearrange the cage - Moving ledges and toys around periodically provides novelty
  • Foraging opportunities - Hide hay or treats for them to find
  • Interaction with you - Many chinchillas enjoy being talked to, held, and played with

Dental Health & Chewing

Like all rodents, chinchillas have teeth that grow continuously throughout their lives. Unlike us, they need to constantly wear their teeth down, or they'll develop painful dental problems that can prevent eating and become life-threatening.

The Importance of Chewing

This is why unlimited hay is so important—the constant chewing action wears down their teeth naturally. But chinchillas also need wooden chew toys to gnaw on. This isn't optional enrichment; it's a health requirement.

Safe Wood for Chewing

Safe woods include kiln-dried pine, poplar, aspen, apple, pear, willow, and birch. Always ensure wood is untreated, unpainted, and free of pesticides. Many pet stores sell chinchilla-safe wood toys, and you can also purchase from online vendors who specialize in small animal supplies.

Woods to avoid: Cedar (toxic), fresh or green/undried wood, treated wood, plywood, MDF, and any wood of unknown origin.

Signs of Dental Problems

Watch for these warning signs:

  • Drooling or wet fur around the mouth
  • Dropping food while eating ("slobbers")
  • Weight loss
  • Reduced appetite or difficulty eating
  • Pawing at the mouth
  • Visible changes in tooth alignment

Dental problems require veterinary care. An exotic vet can trim overgrown teeth or address malocclusion (misaligned teeth). Caught early, most dental issues are manageable.

Health & Common Issues

With proper care, chinchillas are generally healthy animals. However, knowing what problems can occur—and what's normal versus concerning—helps you catch issues early.

Signs of a Healthy Chinchilla

  • Bright, clear eyes
  • Clean, dry nose
  • Soft, fluffy fur without bald patches
  • Active and alert during evening hours
  • Good appetite and regular eating
  • Firm, dry, pellet-shaped droppings
  • Steady weight (weigh weekly to track)

Common Health Issues

GI Stasis: A slowdown or stoppage of the digestive system. Signs include reduced or absent droppings, loss of appetite, and lethargy. This is an emergency—chinchillas can deteriorate rapidly without gut movement. Seek vet care immediately.

Dental Problems: As discussed above, overgrown or misaligned teeth are common. Regular hay consumption and chew toys help prevent issues.

Fur Rings: In males, fur can wrap around the penis inside the sheath, causing pain and potentially serious problems. Check male chinchillas regularly (your vet can show you how).

Respiratory Infections: Sneezing, discharge from nose or eyes, labored breathing, or wheezing all warrant vet attention. Chinchillas can develop pneumonia, which is very serious.

Fungal Infections: Hair loss in patches, especially around the nose, ears, or feet, may indicate ringworm or other fungal infections. These are treatable but require diagnosis and medication.

Heat Stroke: Red ears, drooling, lethargy, and lying flat are emergency signs. Move the chinchilla to a cool area and seek immediate vet care.

Finding an Exotic Vet

Not all veterinarians are experienced with chinchillas. Before you bring a chinchilla home, locate an exotic animal veterinarian or a vet who specializes in small mammals. Ask specifically about their experience with chinchillas.

Establish a relationship with this vet before emergencies happen. Annual wellness checks are recommended, and having a vet who knows your chinchilla's baseline health is invaluable if problems arise.

When to Seek Emergency Care

Chinchillas hide illness well (a prey animal instinct), so by the time symptoms are obvious, the situation may be serious. When in doubt, call your vet. It's always better to check and be reassured than to wait too long.

Behavior & Socialization

Understanding chinchilla behavior helps you build a trusting relationship with your pet and recognize when something might be wrong.

Normal Behaviors

Popcorning: Sudden, explosive jumps and bounces, often against walls. This is a sign of happiness and excitement—one of the most endearing chinchilla behaviors.

Wall surfing: Running along vertical surfaces, bouncing off walls. Another sign of a happy, energetic chinchilla.

Fur slip: When frightened or handled roughly, chinchillas can release a patch of fur. This is a defense mechanism against predators. The fur grows back, but it's a sign of stress.

Barking: A sharp, loud alarm call. Usually means they're startled or warning of perceived danger.

Chirping/Cooing: Soft sounds indicating contentment.

Teeth chattering: Can mean they're content, or if aggressive, a warning. Context matters.

Spraying urine: Females especially may spray when annoyed or defensive. Not pleasant, but normal.

Building Trust

Chinchillas aren't typically cuddly pets right away—trust must be earned over time. Start by simply sitting near the cage, talking softly. Offer treats from your hand. Let them come to you rather than grabbing at them.

Some chinchillas become very affectionate with patient owners; others remain more independent. Respect their personality. Even a chinchilla that doesn't want to be held can enjoy interaction and playtime on their own terms.

Handling

When picking up a chinchilla, support their body firmly but gently. Never grab them by the tail (it can break off) or squeeze them. Scoop under their body and support their hindquarters. Many chinchillas prefer to sit on your hand or arm rather than being clutched.

Keep handling sessions short at first, especially with a new chinchilla. End on a positive note before they become stressed.

Single vs. Pairs

Chinchillas are social animals and often do well in pairs or small groups—but not always. Same-sex pairs (two males or two females) who are properly bonded can be wonderful companions for each other. However, introductions must be done carefully; chinchillas who don't get along can seriously injure each other.

A single chinchilla can live a happy life with sufficient human interaction and enrichment. If you're considering adding a second chinchilla, research proper bonding procedures thoroughly or seek guidance from experienced owners.

Supplies Checklist

Before bringing a chinchilla home, make sure you have everything ready. Here's what you'll need:

Essential

  • Large, multi-level cage with proper bar spacing
  • Exercise wheel (15"+ diameter, solid surface)
  • Glass water bottle
  • Food dish (heavy ceramic or cage-mounted)
  • Hay rack or feeder
  • Wooden hiding house
  • Kiln-dried pine or aspen bedding (or fleece liners)
  • Timothy hay (buy in bulk to save money)
  • Quality chinchilla pellets
  • Chinchilla dust
  • Dust bath container
  • Wooden ledges and platforms
  • Chew toys (apple sticks, wooden toys, pumice)
  • Thermometer for monitoring room temperature
  • Air conditioning (or reliable way to keep room cool)
  • Carrier for vet visits

Recommended

  • Kitchen scale for weekly weigh-ins
  • Extra water bottles (backup)
  • Variety of safe chew toys
  • Fleece hammocks and tunnels
  • Playpen for out-of-cage time
  • Granite or marble tile for cooling (emergencies)

Ongoing Costs

Plan for monthly expenses including hay, pellets, bedding, and occasional supplies like dust and chew toys. Set aside funds for veterinary care—exotic vet visits can be expensive, and emergencies happen.

A Lifetime Commitment

Chinchillas can live 15-20 years—that's longer than most dogs. When you adopt a chinchilla, you're committing to care for them through moves, life changes, and whatever else comes your way. It's a significant commitment, but for those who make it, the reward is a fascinating, beautiful, and entertaining companion.

Every chinchilla who comes through our rescue has their own story, personality, and quirks. Some came from homes where their needs weren't understood; others from owners whose circumstances changed. All of them deserve the chance to live out their long lives in homes where they're properly cared for and loved.

If you have questions about chinchilla care that aren't answered here, please reach out to us. We're always happy to help, whether you're considering adoption or already have a chinchilla at home. And if you're ready to give a chinchilla a forever home, meet our available chinchillas.